I came to Mendoza to spend just a couple of days there, maybe a week. When I was leaving more than a month later, the place felt almost like home.
To justify myself a little, Mendoza is one of the greenest cities in South America, surrounded by vineyards with the snow-capped Andes in the background, plenty of cultural events, nice people, and the best wine in the country. A couple of days is clearly not enough for all this.
On the 20th of March 1861, Mendoza was totally destroyed by a massive earthquake and subsequently rebuilt. The new plan included creation of green plazas, lining streets with trees, creation of parks, etc.
It also included creation of Parque San Martín.
The park is almost 400 hectares including lakes, a stadium, hills, etc.
It could be the biggest park I've ever seen. Even if the whole city decided to visit at the same time it's unlikely to feel crowded.
Cerro de la Gloria in the western end of the park celebrates Army de los Andes and independence of a number of South American countries incl. Argentina, Chile, and Peru.
Not only the city itself is green. Mendoza is surrounded by vineyards, especially in the valleys south and east of the city.
Perhaps I've been there in just the right time to experience the greenest version of it, just ahead of the grape harvest. The harvest and related celebrations were also one of the reasons why I decided to stay longer and wait for Vendimia - the main wine festival.
Wine
Wine is big in Mendoza and, as it turns out, in Argentina as a whole.
Which is the only country that declared wine as its national drink? France? - No Italy? - Nope Argentina!
Mendoza's Malbec is the most popular grape in the area.
Vineries surrounding the city are also used as cultural centers. Open-air cinema in a vinery? Why not! Glass of wine included in the ticket price.
And God created Malbec
On top of all this, there's also the price of local wine. A bottle of Malbec from a boutique winery for less than $5? Only in Mendoza.
And then, at the end of February, Vendimia, big wine celebration. Even fountains magically start transforming water into wine.
It's also about traditions - delegates from all surrounding towns and villages come to Mendoza to promote the candidates for the Miss of Vendimia.
My kind of vibe
Trees, wine, all good, but that's not everything. Mendoza also has this thing that makes you feel at home there. Like my breakfast place where I was coming almost every day to have my cafe con leche y medialunas.
Do I need anything else? Maybe a book fair?
It's also known for its alafajores. I'm being told they are the best in whole Argentina.
There was quite a bit happening in the city during the month I spend there. In addition to everything I already mentioned - Vuelta de Mendoza.
Cycling in the city itself is easy, but climbs slightly west of the city are dramatic (tested myself!)
Up in the Andes
I didn't do a lot of cycling in Mendoza but the routes I cycled were super scenic.
Somehow I felt more like hiking. It's so easy to get from the city to the mountains including some really serious hikes.
One of the best hikes I did was a two-day hike to Penitentes some 4000m above sea level. The hike starts from Puente de Inca, which itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
There isn't a lot of hiking infrastructure there, so one has to come prepared.
Because if you're not prepared ...
Fortunately plenty of water up there, so no need to carry a lot of it. I wouldn't want to carry a lot - the first day of the hike is more than 25km and 1500m ascent.
Very steep climb, but views like this usually don't come for free.
And then, waking up to this view was worth the effort.
Mountain weather can make life very interesting.
But that was not the most extreme weather I've seen there. A couple of days before this happened. It only rained for maybe 20 minutes and afterward the whole city was flooded.
And it wasn't only water that was falling from the sky.
Last evening, parilla with my hosts in their lovely house in the quiet part of the city. When I'm back to Mendoza I'll definitely pop by! Muchas gracias Cini y Agostina, nos vemos! :)
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