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Bicycle Diaries

Yea, I know "bicycle diaries" sounds lame, but I couldn't resist, perhaps because I just read Che's diaries recently. So here it is, quick photo story of my recent two weeks on bike in Patagonia.


Surprisingly diverse. From desert-like pampas, though immense forests to massive mountains and wild lakes and everything within a range of less than 200km from unofficial capital of Patagonia - San Carlos de Bariloche.


Map thanks to Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

South along old Ruta 40

As clouds starts to dissolve over Lago Nahuel Huapi, I'm getting ready to go south through old, unused for many years, "ruta 80" and I'm happy I took a mountain bike with me.


Tarmac quicky transforms into dirt road and I'm happy I took a mountain bike with me.


From among the two, flora is going to be a highlight of the trip, but not only. Plenty of birds fly over me and armadillos on their short legs run fast enough to escape my camera


Many times I'm grateful for my minimalistic setup, especially on climbs. For the time being I'm leaving Ruta 80 to get into even more remote area.


One has to prepare for this route - for the first couple of days there are no inhabited places, no shops, the only source of water are rivers


The road is definitely not a busy one. Two days, three cars passed by. Luckily I'm not trying to hitch a ride


I usually prefer to camp in more secluded places, but this one is good enough

Think positive, what can go wrong?

And there's a farm out there! Whoever lives there - thank you for the water!

Patagonia used to be (relatively) well communicated with other parts of the country thanks to, now largely defunct, railways. This carriage is long dead.

Sheep have plenty of space here in Patagonia.

Horses roaming free - very common sight here

Finally some trees! Of course I'm gonna make use of them.

Yes, yes, I know, unicorn is missing his horn

Weather tends to change quickly and can be very surprising.

Couple of days before my arrival there has been huge forest fire south of Bariloche. 

Today I'm gonna have proper bed and relax in a hammock after days of pedaling. Un saludo, El Bolson.

Back north through the mointains 


Getting north along the western road and the scenery gets very different

I had to chose between relatively busy national road and this. It was a good choice!

To be very honest I was planning to camp here until park ranger arrived and explained this is a private area. Owner, whoever you are, I envy you. Let's look for another spot.

Sun slowly starts to set and the area is truly idyllic.

Ultimately it turned out very positive. Home-made beer, pizza and a farm owned by a young couple who seem to be living the dream of rural self sufficiency

And there dog who has to be spending too much time with sheep

This was totally opposite direction of where I was going, but my last night hosts recommended to cycle west along Rio Manso. Luckily I'm not in a rush because I'd hate to miss this

The path leads though forest along the river for 20 km and being a reserve is one of the most beautiful places I've seen in Patagonia
Leaving the reserve I'm heading back north towards forests recently consumed by fire


... and the damage seems to be massive

This night I'm gonna spend by the Lago Stefan. There's even proper camping there. Camping's owner's name is... Stefan 😏


This is 10 out of 10 as far as campings go

Next day is difficult. 600 vertical meters along a path like this. Avg speed: 2.5 km/h.

But... where's the path?!

To make it all more interesting river crossings are obviously lacking bridges. This one was deeper than it seemed and afterwards I had to wait for my clothes to dry

Not there yet - northern loop


Further north after a bit of climbing

Down, by the lake, time to relax.

Slowly heading back to Bariloche, but I'll try to find a spot for one last camping somewhere along the river.

Looks like I'm getting back to where I started. This area looks very similar to the path I took south nearly two weeks ago.

Dulce de leche + peanuts = enough calories for the day

This camping spot alone was worth 700 km through patagonian dirt roads

Last day comes to an end. Tomorrow morning I'll be back in Bariloche.
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Location: San Carlos de Bariloche, Río Negro, Argentina

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