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Ethiopian Xmas I

Is Ethiopia really as unique as it seems? Is it so different from other African countries? Are Ethiopians really so nice? 

I finally had a chance to check this myself. Staring in Amhara region.


This map was made with Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android

Bahir Dar

The trip starts with a beautiful sunrise over Addis Ababa just before the landing. It's 6:10AM by international standards. Here it's 00:10 because hours are counted from sunrise

Addis is a relatively relaxed city for a capital, but I won't spend too much time here this time and the next day I'm heading towards Bahir Dar on huge lake Tana

Bahir Dar welcomes me with a very colourful lodging

First walk through the city and you see that chickens get special treatment here

Bahir Dar is full of students. There seems to be a big focus on education in Ethiopia including free universities for best students (plus free food and accommodation). Students I met are super-nice

Bahir Dar is located on the southern shore of massive lake Tana and the shore is something for fans of spiders

On the second day I decided to try my favourite way of exploring new places. Cycling in Ethiopia isn't straightforward, but co-travellers you meet on the road make it an interesting experience

The biggest village on my 30km trip to Uda Kidane Meret monastery. Whilst most of Ethiopians in Amhara region are Orthodox Christian, mosques also do exist here (a minaret hides in the far background)

Here it is - one of the most important churches in lake Tana region. I do have amazing friends, but this time Google Photos overestimates a bit 😉

Some apocryphal stories, like this one about John the Baptist, make an interesting subject for a picture

If this gaze could kill... Interesting thing about Ethiopian sacred art is that believers, saints, etc are depicted with both eyes and non-believers in profile with only one eye visible

Back to Bahir Dar and the key moment when I finally managed to overtake the cart pulled by a donkey (mule?). Guys wanted me to drop the bicycle on the cart and join them, but I felt more like cycling

Just a typical African road and a slalom between cattle

Gondar

Gondar is a city unlike other cities in Africa, because it's famous for its medieval castles (I've heard "Camelot of Africa" more than once). 

Multiple castles located in the very center of the city are clearly a highlight of this former capital of Ethiopia.

After a visit to the obvious highlight I decided to try locating a mountain monastery which I've read somewhere about. Kids are usually willing to show you the way

Hoping that the climb under a scorching sun is worth it

The monastery itself turned out to be rather dull. After convincing monks with a small tip I was allowed in.

Much more rewarding experience was being invited me to have a meal with them in a nearby shed... ekhm... dining room.

After injera (this sour pancake-like thing) we had some nasty, sour alcohol and I don't think I want to know how it is being produced.

On the way back one of apprentices asked if I want to pay him a visit and have a coffee with his family. Yes, you guessed my answer! The way to his house was interesting

If you've never seen Ethiopian coffee ceremony, you may be surprised to learn that it starts with the roasting of coffee beans. As fresh as it possibly can be!

Coffee is later ground, boiled together with water and served with sugar. Espresso. Sort of.

I almost ended up with a new Ethiopian wife. After spending some time with the family they offered me their youngest daughter as a wife. Suddenly I understood why she was smiling to me all the time...

Last evening in Gondar was a visit to Debre Birham Selassie church which looks amazing at sunset.

And its iconic ceiling

Simien Mountains National Park

Simien NP, an UNESCO world heritage site, is the last stop on this first part of the trip. Park rangers live in a traditional Ethiopian hut

Entrance to the park is only allowed with a company of armed "scout".

From the very beginning views are incredible!

Being a scout doesn't look like a stressful job.

Park is the only place in the world where you can meet gelada monkeys in the wild. They are so used to humans that they happily ignore people sitting just beside them and watching them eat.

As the sun sets we're preparing to spend a night in a small, very basic camp inside the park.

Spot the monkey

This is how public transport in Simien NP looks like. Luckily I had pre-arranged mini bus back to Gondar. Next day I'm going to Lalibela


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Location: Ethiopia

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