As mentioned in my previous post, I came to Shiraz together with Reza, and together we were going to explore the city along with the most important historical sites around. And there are quite a few historical sites to explore around Shiraz.
Starting in Shiraz we'll go through places like Persepolis and Pasardage to end in Yazd on the edge of the desert. Afterward, I'll go north alone, at least for a short time.
Together with my professor/guide, we're starting with a visit to the most important parts of Shiraz.
Qajar dynasty palace is full of gold, mirrors, and stained glass.
Kebap with yogurt, as traditional as it is, for my stomach was a challenge.
Just in case it wasn't enough, a quick visit to a traditional bakery.
Shiraz is also a city of gardens. Their splendor justifies adding them to the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Time to go to Persepolis. It exceeds all my expectations. Perhaps Greeks won the war, but the scale of Persepolis makes similar sites in Athens tiny by comparison.
Infinite reliefs.
Final resting place of Persian kings. Today inhabited mainly by swallows. And ghosts, presumably.
Zoroastrianism, the religion of ancient Persia, has a long and rich history and still does have some followers. This building used to be a Zoroastrian library.
You are not being named "The Great" for nothing. Cyrus the Great, whose tomb is located at the end of the street is a legend in Iran and even today this place has very significant political meaning to Iranians.
Not too many restaurants around, canned tuna has to suffice. I immediately feel ten years younger.
No restaurants and no hotels either. Tonight we're sleeping at local farmer's place.
Another uncommon thing about Iran is that there are still real nomads living there, mainly in the western part of the country. We came across a camp of the Bakhtiari tribe. Each spring they move north to escape the scorching summer sun. In the autumn they move the other direction.
The camp was empty, we only met one woman left to take care of young goats protected here against wolves. Everyone else went with the herd in search of a pasture and will return in a couple of days.
On the edge of the desert
Desert is visible everywhere in the city of Yazd. From the buildings made of sand, through local customs to the respect for the water.
Like an "Ice House" for example. An architectural feat created to store water and equipped with a natural air-conditioning system that quite literally catches the wind.
All the bricks are made of sand.
Yazd mosque is truly impressive!
Ended up in another Zurkhaneh, this one looks slightly like a torture chamber to me.
A fashion unusual even by the Iranian standards. This is how you know these women came from Queshm island off the southern coast of the country.
Artisans work in places that probably didn't change that much over the last couple of centuries.
Not enough interesting places? How about towers of silence, where Zoroastrians used to leave their dead.
The dead were not buried there - they were being left for the birds which took care of the bodies.
Heading to the prettiest bus station I've seen in my life. Next stop - Esfahan.
Mosques & Friends
Esfahan has one of the most impressive mosques in the world.
Massive structures covered with ceramic tiles and holy scriptures.
Get close to one of them and invariably you'll be given tea and some sweets. I noticed a pattern - the less known the mosque the more people trying to make you feel welcome.
How I ended up staying with Atefeh and her family is a long story. I'll just mention she's studying at the Arts Academy of Esfahan, which is easy to spot ;-)
If you're lucky, you can be visited by the wandering musicians from Pakistan.
You can also try yourself. I'm not a drummer, but hey, we have an artist here!
As much as I'm trying, my attempts to hide the fact that I have a sweet tooth apparently haven't been very effective because I was given this box.
A quick visit to the Armenian church. Was Bosch Armenian?
And this is a... poem.
Homemade food is obviously much better than food from restaurants. Last dinner together and tomorrow I'm going back to Tehran.
Back to a big city. I don't think I've ever seen anything like this on the streets. If it ever crosses your mind to go to Iran, don't do it. Way too dangerous ;-)
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